Ischia: The Emerald Island

When heading south, road trekkers in Italy typically set their itineraries for Amalfi, Sorrento, and Pompeii. But fewer have set their sails for the island of Ischia, a short boat ride from Naples, long lurking behind the shadows of the island of Capri.

Dating back to prehistoric times, this isle rejoices in the byname the Emerald Island -- Isola Verde in Italian. With its crater submerged beneath the sky-blue ripples of the Mediterranean Sea, what exists today is merely a rim -- the remnants of an extinct volcano, which has been dormant only since the 14th century, constituting the largest island in the Bay of Naples.

Because of its strategic position, the green island has sustained a troublesome history. Recurrently colonized, punished, dominated, and sacked by a succession of ruthless invaders, the island has been infused with unique features that greatly distinguish it from areas on the mainland north of Naples whose language, culture, and social customs have only recently converged with those of Ischia. To that effect, the islanders are a peculiar breed.

The present-day language, culture, and cuisine all reflect the succession of settlers, inhabitants, rulers, and invaders of the island. First the Phoenicians, then the Greeks, followed by the Romans -- this was merely the antipasto. Afterwards Byzantine, Normandy, Swabia, Anjou, and Aragon, intermittently sprinkled with marauding pirates, all served the main course. Finally, after the French and Spanish (washed down with some Bourbon) the island was ready for a dessert of liberation.

Now, Ischia is predominantly a tourist destination, attracting modern-day travelers who invade the island for about half the year. One of the most prominent attractions are le terme, or thermal gardens, which boast therapeutic volcanic mud baths, thermal pools, and lots of hot spa activities. Additional highlights that cannot be missed include the Aragonese Castle near the port, the chapel of the Soccorso in Forio, and the fishing village of Sant'Angelo.

Umberto a Mare :: Surf & Turf on an Italian Island

Tucked cozily away under the chapel Soccorso and overlooking the jagged rocks of the Mediterranean below, Umberto a Mare sprouted in 1936 from the terrain that was purchased in 1900 for seven or eight hundred lira-no small sacrifice for the time.

Sitting on terraced slopes, which descended to the sea, a small abandoned structure gave birth to the dream: A restaurant - Umberto by the Sea!

With no few sacrifices, Umberto Castellaccio and Gaetanina Mattera, grandparents of the current owners, created a small paradise on the island of Ischia. Today, the restaurant-hotel is operated by Marco and Umberto Regine who continue to narrate the story:

How typical is Umberto a Mare?

Our restaurant has always based everything on the absolute quality of fresh products, particularly the fish, which has always been supplied by select local fishermen from Ischia and Procida.

As a direct result of such choices, the dishes that we define as "typical" in our restaurant generally consist of assorted raw and marinated seafood, which is prepared differently each day.

Moreover, among deserts, we cannot forget the famous Eggplant Patty with Chantilly cream and bitter chocolate.

How do the island's traditions influence your menu?

Tradition for us has always been a "beacon that inspires," as well as the starting point for all our culinary creations. We are convinced that tradition is not a fixed or immobile concept but rather an inexhaustible source of dynamic inspiration in constant motion.

Do we deviate? Well, virtually not at all in our opinion. Oftentimes, however, some people interpret tradition merely as a series of classic preparations of the Neapolitan cuisine and that's it.

While seafood salad, marinated anchovies, and spaghetti with mussels are not to be despised, cuisine is so much more - a universe of infinite combinations of aromas and flavors to mix and put together.

How would you define Ischia's cuisine?

Ischia is a very unique island in which, as always, two cultures coexist: The maritime population of the coast and the rural population of the foothills and mountains.

The encounter and resulting mix of these two cuisines have given rise to a series of preparations that are typical of Ischia wherein ingredients from both land and sea are combined.

Nevertheless, the Ischia version of rabbit is the most distinguishing recipe of our island. It is an ancient "Sunday" recipe served as a classic preparation at every Sunday lunch when the family gets together at the table.

Greetings from Ischia!